Chefs at Devon on Danks start with ‘how much can I realistically charge the customer‘ and end with ‘what do I need to do to get there‘. DoD is the opposite of a charity fundraiser.
We are here because the missus stumbled upon Devon’s wildly popular Instagram page. As per a dog (2014) and baby (2015), I can only hold her off for so long.
DoD is a sort of fine-dining, Asian fusion eatery open B/L/D. Their show-bag menu is littered with what some find abominable both in flavour and nutrition.
Golden Egg with Truffle catches my eye, but at $43 (w/ extra truffle) I will have to wait 10 years. So I look to Devon’s fritters dish named Venus. The naive consumer is captive to cleverly named staples.
Venus – cauliflower, soft egg, quinoa, pomegranate and yogurt ($18)
Not what I expected! The hero of my dish is a deep-fried floret, which means Devon shares a kitchen with a Japanese take-away tempura joint.
I am not sold on a dump of grains nor a fancy smear of yogurt. Let’s not get started on just one egg. And so I order two more…
Soft boiled eggs – $7
$7 for two is the highest I’ve ever seen. They justify this through the use of negative space on the plate.
To conclude, the tempura is crispy and the flavours are basic. I know of cheaper ways to eat fried food and boiled eggs.
Devon’s most famous dish is a better decision albeit very expensive.
Breakfast with the Sakuma’s – miso grilled king salmon, smoked eel croquette’s, 63 degree egg, salad and kewpi mayo – $25
I think the Asian flavours work well to elevate a salmon-and-egg offer. Mixed emotions on the croquette which is really reminiscent of a long potato gem. Deep frying destroys flavour and I can’t detect eel.
Over time, the yolk and mayo makes the dish too heavy. All I’m left with is pushing spoons of ‘heavy salty stuff‘ down my throat.
With some regret we are unable to try the truffle nor french toast. However, happy to score on the merits of the two dishes:
(♦ = terrible, ♦♦♦♦♦ = superb)
– Food (♦♦♦♦) – experimental, bold flavours which may suit a niche.
– Value (♦) – most expensive cafe breakfast in Sydney?
– Other (♦♦♦) – a very cold and uninviting industrial fit-out. Staff seem nice.
– Overall (♦♦♦) – high expectations and no lasting memory.
Overall, Devon stands out as a very gimmicky version of fine-dining. Philosophically I can never recommend a cafe that over-charges.
Will I be returning?